List 5: Caring for the animal in the trap

This list is not based on personal experience. ‘Our’ feral lived in two large dog crates in the basement in the first 6 weeks; then we moved her to another room. But when you are involved in mass trappings, or want to do a quick TNR operation, the following notes I collected from different sources might be helpful.

Taking care of the animal that goes to the vet the day after trapping

  1. Limit your interaction with the cat, leave the cover on and they will stay calm
  2. Avoid too much direct eye contact; a slow blink might work to signal you are not a monster – getting a response blink is a great thing: it means you have a moment of positive contact with the cat
  3. Keep your fingers away from the cat, use bite gloves
  4. Label the trap with the cat’s name and your details for the vet
  5. Keep overnight – and next day bring to the vet
    • Tip:
    • If uncomfortable with the prepwork, pay to board at vet
  6. Keep cage covered during their stay in a room of which you can regulate the temperature
  7. If you have multiples, do not let them see each other
  8. After an initial meal and a bowl of water, restrict food because they will have surgery the next day; you may add water if you are worried about dehydration, but all in moderation

Feed and clean twice a day in trap, following the routine listed below

  1. For feeding and refreshing newspaper: start at front door of the trap
  2. Pull back cover. This usually makes the cat move to the back: they move away from the light; if this does not happen you may have to prod them gently, e.g. by tapping on the cage or gently touching them with a wooden dowel/rod
  3. Use 2 instead of 1 trap divider to push the cat further back if needed and to create a barrier. Using single divider can still be an escape for small cats; insert divider at an angle rather than straight down; that makes it impossible for the cat to push the divider and escape
  4. Remove soiled newspaper (food, extrement, water)
  5. Place fresh newspaper
  6. When done, close and secure the door (double check!)
  7. Replace cover
  8. Go to back door, rinse and repeat the following steps:
    1. Pull back cover. This usually makes the cat move to the back: they move away from the light
    2. Use 2 instead of 1 trap divider to push the cat further back if needed and to create a barrier. Using single divider can still be an escape for small cats; insert divider at an angle rather than straight down; that makes it impossible for the cat to push divider and escape
    3. Remove soiled newspaper (food, extrement, water)
    4. Place fresh newspaper
    5. Put out food on disposable plate
    6. Put fresh water in a low container that is not easy to knock over
    7. When done, close and secure the door (double check!)
    8. Replace cover

Going to the vet

  1. Some vets require that the cat arrives in the trap, and not in another kind of carrier. Make sure you know what is required
  2. Take cat to the vet while still in trap and do not forget to write your details on the label of the trap
  3. Cover bottom of car with tarp
  4. Bring cat in, in their trap, keep covered and make sure the trap is secure and cannot move around freely
  5. If you can, bring a poop sample so the vet can check it
  6. If they poop during transport, even better: you can bring it fresh 🙂 Despite the smell, forget about removing it while in transit, as there are many cases of cats escaping at that moment. Open your windows, breathe through your mouth and pray the trip will be short…
  7. Things to be done by the vet:
    • Scan microchip, just in case they do belong to someone – if so, general health checks can still be done, but neutering is not an option without the owner’s consent
    • Check poop sample
    • Check blood for FIV/Heart worm etc.
    • Treat for fleas, ticks and ear mites
    • Give antibiotics if needed
    • Check teeth
    • Give bath
    • Nail trim, especially if cat will be staying with someone for socialisation or just to recover after surgery
    • Give them a microchip and connect to your personal details or those of the rescue group you are working with
    • Neuter (discuss ear tipping: not required if cat will be socialised)
  8. Some cats might be better off being euthanised before neutering if they carry diseases that cannot be treated and/or are contagious, but this is a personal decision you and/or the rescue that you are working with need to make.

Coming home from the vet, still in trap:

  1. Male cats might need 24 hours to recover before release; they can spend this time in the trap with proper care for waste removal and refreshing food and water; check in with them regularly to make sure everything is OK
  2. Female cats need at least 48-72 hours of recovery, or even more when they are to be released into their old area after surgery. The hair needs to grow back first, especially in the cold season and wound should be well-healed; they will also need pain meds; more so if they had a hysterectomy with abortion of kittens in their uterus, making the impact of the surgery bigger; if possible, transfer the cat to a temporary and safe holding place until it is time to release
  3. When they are looking good, and no candidates for socialising, transfer them to a trap or carrier, as relevant, and release them in their original surroundings provided that they have access to a food source; or else find a barnyard project with a cat colony instead
    • What is described as a barn-yard colony is usually an indoor space in a rural area. It can be an old stabling complex or a part of an old farmhouse, with at lease some climate control in place.